So this is Civilization

This was supposed to be posted yesterday, but after touting the free wi-fi at LAX I lost my connection and couldn’t make it work again. As evidenced by posting now, we’ve arrived safely, Minion seems to have suffered no ill effects from the trip (other than not biting for over 24 hours, I think a personal best) and Seattle has welcomed us with a downpour. We did not bring this with us!

Thru hulls shut. Arrangements made with someone to watch the boat. Mooring buoy line wrapped with anti chafe material, with an extra line tied to it, just in case. Vodka and rum bottles emptied. Sails lashed down. Dinghy deflated, bagged and tied down on the foredeck. Outboard locked on the rail. Batteries topped off with water. Everything but the fridge shut off. Remaining four beers in the fridge so they will be nice and cold for our return. Boat cleaned, and all loose items removed from the topsides. Hatches closed. Bags packed. Health certificate and rabies vaccination for Minion, along with small bags of food and litter, kitty treats, a food dish, Sailor Jerrys cup for him to drink out of. Jenn’s craft projects of a turning a duffel bag into a soft kitty carrier and spare manila folders into collapsible/disposable litter trays complete. Ride arranged to the airport, tickets purchased. Snacks purchased and packed since it doesn’t appear they feed you on airplanes anymore. Chargers for every electronic device packed (two laptops, two cameras, one Kindle, one iPad, one car GPS in case we can’t remember our way around Seattle, and two cells phones that don’t have cell service anymore). Minion
packed in a bag.

Whew. If you think of something I forgot to do to the boat to prep it for sitting unattended for two weeks – don’t tell me till I get back.

It took as about 5 minutes on shore before we both realized at about the same time that we forgot to pack the delicious pasta salad Jenn made for the trip. At least we had some last night. Odds are it will be a science experiment by the time we get back, but at least it is in the fridge. Well, if that is the worst thing that happens on this trip, we’ll be in good shape.

So far the trip as been fine, although Minion seemed a lot more calm at the nearly empty Loreto airport being carried in my arms through the metal detector than he did at LAX. Of course, with such a crush of humanity I was probably more stressed myself. We are currently enduring the worst part of our trip – a four hour layover. At least the airport has free wi-fi. The woman sitting next to me gave the USA Today sports section so for the first time in about 9 months, I was able to actually read a newspaper. Apparently, I haven’t missed much. We are also trying to come to terms with how much we spent for a couple of beers. Yes, they were microbrews, but I haven’t spent that much for a beer since I needed to drown my sorrows because I was at a Mariners game. This is going to make whining about 30 peso beers a bit more difficult when we return.

One more two and a half hour flight and we’ll be back in Seattle. I want to write that we’ll be “home”, but already being in the US feels a bit odd, so many people, no taco stands, having to remember to say ‘Thank You’, not ‘Gracias’. I guess the boat really is home now. But I am looking forward to our visit, I’m very excited to see family and all my friends. And I’ve even had two offers of short term work which will certainly help out with the shopping spree we have in mind!

Homeward Bound

Circumstances have come together in such a way that we are taking a trip home. We were generously offered the use of a buddy pass from my sister, at about the same time Alaska Airlines changed their policy to allow pets to fly in cabin in Mexico. We were also near a spot we can leave the boat for a reasonable price, and if we travel now it will be summertime in Seattle, and we can return to the boat in time to sail north to avoid the worst of the hurricane zone. So even though it violates some weird goal I had in my head of being gone a year before heading home, we are flying to Seattle on July 19th for a two week visit.

Of course this is not without some complications. The great little hard kitty carrier we’ve been toting around on the boat all this time (it does store the as of yet uninstalled anemometer quite nicely) is apparently about three inches too tall to fit beneath an airline seat, where Minon will have to ride. This is concerning since Minion is taller than the case when he stands up. But thanks to a lucky find of an appropriately sized duffel bag, Jenn’s sewing skills to put in some mesh panels, and the kind donation of a political yard sign from the recently completed Mexican elections which we cut up to make a floor, we have a soft kitty carrier we think will fit under the seat. I’m not sure how Minion is going to cope with such a cozy space for the two 2.5 hour flights and a four hour layover, but we are hoping for the best. Another new cruising couple on a yet unnamed boat is going to give us a ride to the airport. We had actually discussed catching a ride with the to the US at the end of July when they are driving up to the Bay Area but this will be a little quicker trip for us. Since, as the saying goes, cruiser plans are written in sand at low tide, they were understanding about us not riding up with them. It will be nice to have a planned ride after our hitching to town experience that involved a lot of walking and standing in some very powerful sun, and the phrase “careful of the machete” as Jenn climbed into the back seat of a the pickup that stopped to pick us up on the way back. I figured being warned to watch out for the machete was a pretty good sign, vs. not being warned about one and having it surprise us later.

I’m not sure we would have been given this sign if they had known we were going to cut it up to line the bottom of a kitty carrier.

After our trip to town today pick up a few last supplies, we now have two days to pack, clean up and prep the boat for our two week absence. While there is very little threat of a hurricane here this time of year, there is still the possibility of a Chubasco with up to 70 knot winds so we’ll leave as little as possible on the decks and lash down the sails. We are leaving the boat on a mooring ball, and we’ve heard the ground tackle holding the mooring balls here are in good shape but I may toss on the scuba gear and dive down to look at the one we are on, just to make sure. Of course, in our perfect world we’ll leave the boat spotless so we can come back to a clean boat with our bags full of new goodies to explode into. We’ve started some packing, and I actually managed to locate a jacket which I’m afraid I may need. I’m still trying to find socks, and have realized that my swimsuit count may outnumber actual shorts. While swimsuits make fine daily wear here, I might be better off wearing more traditional clothes while out and about in Seattle.

Assuming all our remaining clothes for temperatures under 85 degrees are located and packed and the boat is sufficiently prepped, we’ll be in Seattle in a couple days hoping the sunshine comes with us, and that we don’t go into some sort of toxic shock from having the daily high temperature not be as hot as the heat we try to beat in the middle of the night with fans and a lack of blankets. It will be whirlwind tour of friends, family, shopping, fountain soda, crunchy tacos, home cooked meals, micro brews, trying to remember how to drive (ignore that if you’ve offered us the use of a car) and couch surfing. We may even go sailing. All while actually wearing clothes, coats even, with a black cat in tow. I can’t wait!

Minion wants to make sure we don’t forget to pack him too!

The 4th of July Dash

A little sunset to get us ready for our trip.


Sometimes, when you sail towards a destination the wind is just right. Our first leg north was not one of those times. The wind seemed to be blowing from the island we were sailing to, but since it wasn’t that far away we tacked a few times and beat towards it. We were rewarded with some dolphins leaping out of the water as we arrived at Isla Coronado. The next couple days were the kind of sailing where the wind was almost just right, behind and and blowing. Of course there was also some wave action, and at times maybe a touch much wind. But for the most part it was some of our best sailing and we actually averaged about 5.5 knots on one of the legs while under just the jib. I can not for the life of me figure out why one of the boats that went by us was motor sailing, although I was happy to find out after they passed us that they weren’t just sailing. We eventually had to reef when the wind picked up and I couldn’t get the boat to slow below 7 knots. Tan Tori was a bit behind us and reported seeing 40 knots wind in that area.

A pelican diving for some tasty fish. I’ll bet he didn’t get a 55″ Dorado!


You know what? Pelican butt.

After racing up to Bahia Concepcion so quickly we had a day to rest up before the 4th of July party, which we mostly spend recovering from the sailing and a rather nervous night at anchorage with 30ish knot winds all night. At least they were blowing from the beach, so if we drug anchor we would have woken up in the middle of the Sea of Cortez, not on the beach. We are also a little tired out from hauling in a 55″ Dorado and cutting off so many filets we had to give some away when we got to Concepcion. It even rained a bit in the morning after all the wind, making me a little homesick for typical Seattle 4th weather. We also went ashore to scope out a local tienda, which did not have a lot of goods on their shelves, but much to Jenn’s relief despite their lack of power did have a bin of ice with diet Coke in it.

The one that didn’t get away. On the way back, one did but it was smaller.


Colors of the Pacific Northwest.


Raindrops on the 3rd of July. Just like home.


On the Fourth, we headed to the party around noon, ready to enjoy the cruiser potluck and free hot dogs provided by the host Geary who lives on the beach and provides weather reports on the single side band radio for cruisers. Several of the boats that had been anchored in the next bay south with us had moved over to the anchorage in front of the beach, making it quite full. Overall I believe there were 40 boats that signed in. After a trip through the potluck line, a couple rounds of cold cervezas and some socializing we decided to head back to the boat to relax (nap) before heading back for the fireworks.

Jenn and Tori on the way to the party.


Jenn brought the ever popular Jello shots for the potluck. Cruisers love free booze.


Consider yourself warned.


I didn’t quite catch what the woman was saying to this guy, but I believe it involved questioning his wardrobe choices. Even in Mexico, we can’t escape the Utilikilt.


Prior to the fireworks, one of the cruisers put on a fire spinning show. He was good with the banter and had a lot of interaction with the crowd. Jenn and I were a bit amused with oohs and ahhs from the crowd – after Burning Man this was not the most impressive fire spinning show since we’ve seen dozens of people all performing at once. At least this performance was on a real Playa! (I don’t usually explain my humor, but since that one will only make sense to Burners, very few of which probably read this… Burning Man is held on a dry lake bed referred to as The Playa. Playa is Spanish for beach.) After he finished there was a little break, then the fireworks show. I guess on the plus side, not all of the shells were launched at once, but it was a rather meager show with a not a lot of variety. I’ve put on better shows with the fireworks my ex step dad used to buy.

A little fire spinning.


A little fire breathing.


A little fireworks.

The next day we decided to give the weather a some time to calm down. The forecast was for lighter winds that should be a bit more favorable to our direction of travel. If we had been trying to beat into the weather we sailed north to the party in, we probably would have turned around and skipped the party. We used our weather day to hitch a ride into Mulege. We had been told hitching a ride was pretty easy so we walked out to the highway and waited for a car to go by so we could stick out our thumbs. And waited. There were very few cars heading to town, and about half the vehicles that went by going the right direction were semis or other delivery trucks. Eventually the guy beer at the party drove by, and my patronage paid off as he stopped without us even sticking out our thumbs. It was a bit interesting sitting in the back of a box truck (think small U-Haul truck) with the sliding door open, but we managed not to fall out. Mulege provided some groceries, a very filling chicken lunch with great internet, and a fun second hand store we explored. We both miss our Value Village trips!

At least there was a wheel well to sit on.


And a great view of where we were.

We caught a ride back much quicker, from a local in a pickup so old I had to check and see if it was a Datsun. He seemed like a nice young guy but didn’t speak much English. I was able to pick up that we was recommending a restaurant near our anchorage wear we think he worked. I still can’t carry on a conversation but I’m learning more words. Now if they just came at me a little slower!

We spent the next couple days heading back south to the Loreto area. The winds did calm down, a little too much so we pretty much motored the whole trip. We stopped in San Juanico and did some beach combing as Jenn was keen on finding some obsidian, and visited the cruisers shrine. We made a quick stop at Punta Mangles to check out the resort abandoned during construction. The beach combing didn’t live up to the guide book, and we were running a little low on gas for the dinghy so we skipped the several mile round trip to the sea caves. Maybe on our next stop we can check them out. Now we are back at Isla Coronados, and after a couple days of almost private anchorages we are a bay with 7 other boats and lots of VHF chatter during the day. It almost feels like civilization.

Our contribution to the cruiser shrine at San Juanico.


Jenn’s beach combing efforts are rewarded with obsidian.


All I found was a giant hermit crab.


Checking out the cruisers shrine.


A picture for my geologist friends, if I have any.

While the trip up and back was fun and provided some interesting stops the overall party was a bit of a let down. I was kind of hoping to meet some new people since a lot of the boats that will be in the Sea of Cortez for the summer were there, and we didn’t really accomplish that. It underscored how young we are compared to the average cruisers. We did chat with one other couple in our age range and look forward to seeing them again but didn’t have a chance to really interact on more than a quick conversational level. I guess I can’t complain too much, I’m writing this in the cockpit of the boat this morning in a swimsuit with dolphins feeding nearby and a ray repeatedly jumping out of the water and slapping back on the surface.

This boobie grabbed a free ride on our windvane. Considering we caught it with a fishing lure I guess it kind of deserved the break. And yes, it flew off and seemed okay after the whole ordeal.


Jenn tries to touch a boobie


I’m Batkitty!